Friday, 3 April 2015

Cuba… A wonderful Surprise - An Unexpected Experience...

Six Weeks in Cuba…

A brief summary before we begin…
The number one thing to us was the people - They have so little, yet they will give you anything!
then, Music, music and more music


A vast country, life is simple, many horse & carts, sheep & goats, livestock drawn ploughs,
so dry and hot however always a happy face!

People always wanted to practice their "Inglis" and of course we wanted to try out our "Holas"

Cruising the South Coast we had a big surprise of the beautiful Cayos, alternating between Mangroves and Beach and Coral.

Trading is expected!..  Clothes, Spanish/English Dictionaries, Rum (Ron), Cigarettes, Beer, Soft Drinks for Camaronies (shrimp) Lanoustine (Crayfish) Pescado (Fish) etc etc.

We met a uniquely universally happy people, who will do anything for a stranger.
There is 100% literacy in Cuba!
However, the average wage is between $20 - $50 USD per month

We feel extremely priveledged to have been to Cuba before any future changes happen…
 Muchas Gracias - Thank You Senors & Senoras, and all our "Amigos"...

15 February - 31 March
It is an overnight sail from Gt Inagua to Cuba.  We leave at 04:00 (am)…
As we approached the restricted waters of Guantanymo Bay we were radioed by US Coast Guard - we were then shadowed along, both on our Starboard Side - US Coastguard and also on our port side by something that was showing on our radar, however couldn't be seen by binoculars… interesting.

As we approach Cuba, we are amazed at how mountainous she is…


We come around the headland of Santiago de Cuba with the fort overlooking us…


 Arriving, we were initialling asked to anchor well off, until we were cleared by the doctor.  We were then asked to come to the dock, we rafted up to Seismic Wave…


being a working port, some rather large ships came quite close by…



we found during our time we had very interesting taxis - this being our first

Teresa with our first taxi driver
Richard & Brett went ashore and met with "Pedro"s son, who introduced us to his dad - Pedro (wife Rosa).  They organised our "first" taxi, they gave us an amazing dinner (no charge)… we danced, we drank and we enjoyed their company…


Heading into Santiago City we just walked - coming across music all over the place…



We went for a day trip to Catholic Cathedral -  "Patron Saint of Cuba" 



in the town just below this is the barbershop…


the meat and vege shop…


 People are so "number 8 wire" as we would say in NZ,
a wheelbarrow made of whatever you can get your hands on…


A street near Revolution monument these guys were taking dinner home (alive!)…


At the Marina, we all looked out and saw a monohull dragging - it had dragged a Looooooong way and the local marina people had been trying to get it sorted unsuccessfully for over an hour…
Ian from Makara (catamaran) had initially gone to help, then
Brett & Richard ended up going out on a local boat to give help and they managed to get the mono's anchor up and bring it alongside the marina - what an experience!
A shock for the owners 
when they came back and found their boat a long way from where they had left it!


 We met a delightful couple, Peter & Eileen at the Marina, they had just arrived on their yacht from Rio Dulce area where we are ultimately heading this season.

We all went into Santiago for an evening…

View from your Restaurant

truth be known, this is a rather sedate photo, considering we all had lots of drinks, 
dancing and fun together in the few days we were together!

After leaving the marina, we stopped at remote places, 
however we were no permitted to go ashore… the rules here state that we must check in with a "Guarda Fronterra" (excuse the spelling) and we are only allowed to go ashore in designated areas...


At Moprea del Portillo we were allowed ashore - it is an agricultural area…


all work on the plantations are done by Ox… or horse...



At this wonderful agricultural area we were able to acquire fresh fruit and vegetables, however when we wanted to know how much to pay, we were asked for any surplus clothing rather than money…

Our next destination took us to a extremely remote spot that has a floating dive hotel…
we were lucky enough to arrive on a change over of guest day, therefore no other tourists...


This area is known for the crocodiles, which come in to be fed - NO SWIMMING for us here!


3rd March and Teresas Birthday has come around…
I asked her what she would really like and she said Crayfish AND …

so a shrimp dish from fresh shrimp that we had acquired from the previous anchorage…

Shrimp Boats at Anchor with us
was our entree…


followed by Crayfish…
(crayfish Caesar Salad, Crayfish Kilpatrick, Crayfish Natural with 3 dipping sauces (Satay, Japanese, BBQ) and a Apple Cucumber & Ginger Salad with Asian dressing…


followed by a Chocolate Birthday Cake…


then Chocolate Truffles (which by this stage I wasn't taking photos!)…


Teresas birthday ended with a beautiful sunset over Seismic Wave… 
viewed from Our Rose with somewhat blurry eyes (ha ha ha)...




It was before the first course of Teresa's birthday that our little friend turned up…


He Settled himself down on my planter, which at the time had cilantro (coriander) plants…


His name for us was obviously Cilantro…

Cilantro stayed with us for a couple of days…
He would fly up to the stack pack when we moved to keep an eye on us 
letting out the gib or screecher...


He would wait by the radio…


and he would sit on my lap...


the day he left us, 
we had anchored at Cayo Machos de Fuera…
Cilantro flew up onto my shouder, spent a couple of minutes gently pecking my face and hair 
and then he flew off… fair winds Cilantro


We stopped at Cayo Blanco - where we were lucky enough to meet a wonderful man who not only organised for us to go to the Marina at Trindad, but he also organised for us to meet Rafael, who ended up being our driver for many days.  He also organised our "Casa Particular" in Havana.

This is Seismic Wave (left) and Our Rose (Right) at Trinidad Marina…

Rafael took us to Parque El Nicho National Park… gorgeous



We then went to a local spot for lunch - all cooking is over open fires...



this is the pantry…  and yes, I had ordered pork!


 Just up the road from where we were based at Trinidad, 
Richard and I went out for lunch…


We left our boats at Trinidad Marina and Rafael took us to Havana…
We stayed in a Casa Particular that he had organised…
It was fantastic -  large queen bed room with air conditioning,
fridge, separate ensuite with large shower, linens changed daily
- the cost was $30USD total per night…
These were David's - owner of our Casa Particular - pet "alligators"… (David is a vet)


Havana was an interesting city - different than just about everywhere else in Cuba…
The Architecture was incredible, as were the cars… 







There were street people dressed as statues - the people are becoming entrepreneurial - any way to make some extra money…



We went to the "Tropicana" Show
Oh la la…



14 March - Bretts Birthday
We walked the "Calle Jan de Hallel" - Artist Street


  we then went to Hotel Nacionel 
(famous for the Cuban Missile Crisis tunnels and Mafia Meetings)
for a refreshing beer…


Bretts wish for his birthday was to go to a baseball game.  
We had found there was one on - the Havana Industrialies, vs Granma…  
I had never been to a baseball game and this was an extraordinary experience!
Unfortunately no photos of the game - all we can say is the crowd certainly know how to get involved!
We then went to a Cuban/Chinese restaurant for dinner…

Arriving back at Our Rose, one of our wonderful security men caught a fish off the back of Our Rose...


Before we went to Havana, we had met some tourists who had been out fishing on one of the local charter boats docked behind us - they hadn't had so much success that day, 
and we had invited onboard for a cold beer and a chat.

We found that Vince (Dad) was having a birthday 
and his sons would have gone back to USA and Canada…

so we went and joined Vince for his 82nd birthday…




The resort Vince stays at…


Craying has been quite good to us…


We anchored at Cayo Guano Este
what an amazing lighthouse here… 
We went ashore - this is their dinghy…


The views from the lighthouse were "amazing"...


We went to the Biological station
Cay Contiles… it is manned by four guys - we swapped rum/movies for crayfish
I also made them a cake… YUM!!! on all sides


The last night together with Teresa and Brett - starting out with a few sedate drinks and nibbles - 
Teresa and Brett gave Richard a "very early" birthday present…


just fantastic!  we all played cribbage together many a night, and they gave Richard a set for his birthday - bring on the competition!!!!!  Thank you to Teresa & Brett, not only for the early birthday gift, but for the last 2 months of fun….
until we see you next time!..

Brett after a couple!
Some of the signs we have seen…






















Goodbye Georgetown, Hello Ragged Islands & Great Inagua (Bahamas)...


As it has been over two months since updating the blog, I will do date and picture entries… during this time we sailed from Georgetown Bahamas, down the Ragged Islands, to Great Inagua - stopping at many Cays along the way.  This is just a brief snapshot of the time...

29 January 2015

 We had met Annie and Daryl (No Rehearsal) in Grenada - our paths had crossed many times along the way, so we couldn't leave Georgetown without Celebrating Annies birthday - we had a lovely dinner/party, I made Annie a Birthday Cake and along with Brett & Teresa and another couple we had a lovely evening - we knew it would be goodbye to our friends Annie and Daryl - we knew it would be some time until our paths cross again...

The next morning along with Seismic Wave, we up anchored and left Georgetown.

3 February 2015

Sausages and Marshmellows on the beach at Flamingo Cay


9 February 2015

Johnston Cay is beautiful...


however, the windward side shows another story - no matter where we go there is rubbish...


14 February 2015

We anchored out at Matthewtown, taking the dinghy ashore, this is the entry…
3 sunken boats...

and on we sailed...

Monday, 26 January 2015

Life Aboard "Our Rose", written by Michael Langlois

For those of you who’ve been following the story of Our Rose but have not spent time aboard, I am here as a recent stowaway to tell you that Richard and Jen are, in spite of all the sunny prognostications on their blog and the myriad photos of smiling happy people in exotic foreign locales, truly suffering. 
How can that be, you’re all undoubtedly asking yourselves? 

All we’ve ever heard about is how fantastically outfitted the boat is, with every possible modern convenience, from an unlimited supply of fresh water and state of the art navigation system, a navigation system moreover that takes the boat from point A to point B with nary a lifting of the proverbial finger, unless, of course, that finger is Jen’s middle one, which she uses to great affect as various speedboats cruise by her home at full throttle tossing up a terrific wake, entirely oblivious of her finger or their own behaviour. 

And as for Richard, well, I don’t want to alarm those of you Kiwi’s out there who were smart enough to stay home to watch the America’s Cup on TV, but Richard doesn’t even know what day of the week it is half the time. His days are consumed by the number of hours he’s counting down before he needs to service his generator or replace the fuel filter on his dinghy. Sad. All terribly sad. 

Thankfully, I came aboard just in time to alert them as to how dire things had gotten and while I was there we did manage to get out of the “house” for a few excursions. 

We saw pigs swimming in the ocean then shortly thereafter heard the following on the radio from Staniel Cay in the Bahamas. “Attention boaters, it has come to our attention that some visitors are allowing our beloved pigs to swim too far from shore. We all love our swimming pigs and while they can swim, they are not Michael Phelps. Please stay close to shore if you go there to feed them.” This is the kind of high sea’s adventure Richard and Jen have gotten themselves into. Ten-dollar Bahamian loaves of bread and warnings about swimming pigs getting too much exercise. Hardly Pirates of the Caribbean, if you get my drift. 

In spite of the many onerous responsibilities that come with a lifestyle defined by bottomless glasses of Chardonnay and lobster on the half shell, life aboard Our Rose is at once more thrilling and more prosaic than one might imagine. 

Rising at his leisure, i.e., sometime around dawn, Richard typically spends his mornings poring over nautical charts before cooking breakfast, a meal that veers between cooked apples and yoghurt or canned spaghetti over raisin-bread toast with a spoonful of jam on top. Yes! I know it’s shocking, but a dollop of jam atop spaghetti on top of toast is apparently a New Zealand delicacy, alongside French fries dipped in vanilla ice-cream! or so Jen and Richard told me. 

But what the hell do I know? I’m American and I was only in New Zealand once and all I remember was the sheep and the nuclear powered sunshine. 

After a typical New Zealand breakfast we practiced our New Zealand vocabulary. Dick=Deck. Sex=Seven minus One. Cuds=Children. Fitter-cheney=Type of Pasta. Once I figured out what the hell Richard and Jen were saying to me, we generally discussed what the dinner menu might be (Fush or Chuckin) and once those life and death issues had been attended to Richard and I set off in the dinghy in search of lobsters. (Free food being something sailors, rich or poor, seem unable to resist.) Jen, meanwhile, spent most of her days depleting the world’s supply of household cleansers and scrubbing every inch of Our Rose to a state that would be the envy of any Swiss-German. Once the boat was sanitized and the laundry had been washed and hung out to dry, Jen set about concocting the evenings repast, a meal staggering in its ambition and execution. 

Entertaining and figuring out how much or how little to drink is, admittedly, the focus of life aboard any sailing vessel and Our Rose is no exception. 

And so, after 12 days aboard Our Rose, 
I lift Jen and Richard flew back to Miami on an earplane for some much needed wrist.  



Friday, 23 January 2015

The Bahamas Revisited...

It was beautiful arriving back in the crystal "bombay sapphire" clear water of the Bahamas.

The sunsets continue to be beautiful…


This outdoor chirstmas tree was at Spanish Wells,


We met a local man while taking photos of the Christmas lights, who took us down some back streets to the most wonderful light display in the tiny town of Spanish Wells…


We arrived into the Abacos and made our way down to Hopetoun.
Christmas day was a lovely day together, enjoying champagne and a very long lunch.

We met a lovely couple, John and Terri from Canada, 


who we enjoyed time with both on Christmas Eve and Boxing Day.

We went to the "famous" Sunday Pork Roast at Nippers at Fishers Bay


We slowly made our way down the Abacos, arriving at Royal Island Eleuthera 
where we said goodbye to 2014 and hello 2015

On 10th January, Michael arrived at Staniel Cay from Miami, joining us on Our Rose and flying out from George Town on the 22nd
(unfortunately Rebecca couldn't make this trip)…

We visited the swimming pigs at Staniel Cay…


We enjoyed lots of snorkelling,


at Marine Parks…



and also at Statues…

Michael playing the underwater piano with mermaid at hand
and Plane Wrecks…



Lots of Food and Wine (think our livers are having a huge workout!)


S/V Kairos also joined us during this time from Staniel Cay to Georgetown…


we caught up with Teresa and Brett, and also Annie and Daryl from No Rehearsal for a fire and Marshmellows at the beach (and the odd glass of wine or two)...


These blow-holes were amazing…



So you think Michael is fit (or what)???



It was lovely having Michael join us and look forward to our next visit!

We are now heading down through the Ragged Islands to Cuba and our internet will not be accessible, so the next update will be some time... until then lots of love to all our friends and family